Newport to Bermuda - A Travel Log

by Mike Wilson

October 28, 2006 Saturday Temp high-62F, Rain, Wind 23-47 knots

  I arrived in Providence, Rhode Island at 11am and was greeted by a pouring rain and angry wind. Before I stepped outside of the airport I dawned my blue rain gear then spent thirty minutes trying to find the Cozy Cab Company. Everyone I asked gave me directions and all were wrong. As it would happen the Cozy Cab company desk was very near where I was asking directions. I suspect someone wanted me to take another cab service. When our driver finally arrived he was under the weather, literally, running a fever. We loaded the van and departed for Newport but after crossing the bridge into town he stopped at the cab office leaving the cab motor running he disappeared for nearly twenty minutes until another driver appeared to take his place. He said he was just too sick to continue his route. Our new driver not knowing whether we were coming or going headed back towards the airport until one of the other passengers yelled that we were going in the wrong direction. After a U turn we were finally on course. Each of us gave the driver our destination and I was first; I requested, “the Newport Yacht Center”. The driver was sure he knew where it was then hung a few rights then lefts and had me at a harbor destination. I unloaded the van with my gear, bid him goodbye, and headed in the building only to find that he dropped me off at the Newport Yacht Club not the Newport Yacht Center. The first words from the salty dogs inside the building were, “The Newport Yacht Center is just across the bay”, “hope you can swim”. The rain poured, blowing sideways but I picked up my gear, pulled up my rain pants that had sagged down my backside and headed out into the weather for the long walk to the yacht center.

  As I approached the boats at the yacht center someone yelled, “are you Mike ? “, it was Captain Patrick Childress. For a moment I did not recognize him because of his gray hair and gray mustache . He was loading the boat with supplies and directed me to follow him where I met his fiancé.   Once I stowed my stuff I helped bring the rest of the supplies on board.

  I liked the boat, Antares was her name, a Swan 46. She was a little older, built in 1987 but still very beautiful outside and in. I took the starboard bunk and wondered if I would be able to sleep there if the weather was bad.

  After the food and supplies were brought aboard Patrick with fiancé took me out to eat in a very old restaurant in Newport. During our lunch we talked about St. Thomas and got caught up on 23 years of living. Arriving back at the boat I met another crew member, Marion. She was from Ontario and had learned about the trip from Captain Rick Butler, her sailing instruction, who by the way, was transporting a boat down to Bermuda in the same rally.

  In the evening Hank Schmitt, the owner of Offshore Passage Opportunities hosted a dinner for the captains and crew of the NARC rally. Jerry, our fifth crew member showed up with his wife; now our entire crew was assembled consisting of Patrick, Jerry, Rebecca, Marion, and me. Since it was Halloween weekend, we stayed in town to watch the locals parade around in their costumes but the wind and temperature kept many at home. We were plenty tired when we marched back to the boat. As I crawled up into my bunk for the night the wind was howling outside the boat. Thank goodness for ear plugs. It is getting colder but the rain had stopped.

October 29, Sunday Temp high-52F, Partly Cloudy, Wind early- approx 40 knots - later 13-27 knots 5am- The wind is blowing hard at about 30-40 knots. The dock is bobbing up and down like a toy boat in a bathtub. Hopefully it will ease so we can venture out for a sail at 12 noon to do a few drills and get acquainted with the boat and  crew. I did not know until I arrived that there will be only five crew. That means if the weather is rough we will not get much rest. Each of us will get plenty of time in the cockpit and on the wheel.

7am- I went back to sleep and just woke up; sleeping like a baby in my bunk (or as Jerry calls it, “my cocoon”) with the boat rocking. We went to eat breakfast this morning at the Seaman’s Church Institute located at the harbor. This organization is very old and has facilities all along the coast to provide an inexpensive refuge to sailors.

The wind continues to be relentless. When we arrived back at the dock several boats were almost loose. One boat had broken it’s bow line and was pounding the stern of another very expensive boat. It took eight of us to secure it. We tied extra lines on many other boats to keep them from riding on and over the bumpers.

  Tina, the crew member who will join the boat on the second leg to St. Martin took us to West Marine for some last minute supplies. When we got back I took the opportunity to take the last warm calm shower before the trip. Captain Childress is determined to depart around noon tomorrow if the wind is not too bad. He warned us to expect a rough ride; at least for the few days.

  Captain Childress facilitated a crew meeting this afternoon. We learned the essentials about the water and electrical systems and rigging. He explained which winches to use, how to operate the engine and the hydraulics. I was a little intimidated about being on a large sailboat but after his session and training, felt at ease with the boat in general.

6pm – The crew went for one last sit down dinner tonight. Ice cream too!!. The wind is still blowing hard.

 October 30, Monday Temp high-60F, Sunny, Wind easing- between 10-21 knots

Boat at the dock - Position N41.29.762 W71.20.344

2am – Wind easing. Slept well all night. I awoke full of excitement anticipating leaving today. We have a weather briefing today with a weather router; all of the NARC captains and crew will be there. I can only imagine what the next 24 hours has in store for us.

7 am-  The air is much colder this morning. The wind in the bay is blowing at about 23 knots, gusting to 30.

9am – Weather Briefing – The weather router provided two departure windows for us provided the weather system in the Atlantic continues to develop as expected. Today looks good for the bigger and faster boats; which we are.

10:30 am – Captain Childress indicated that we will depart ASAP. The wind is steady in the bay at about 25 knots.

1:30pm – We departed for Bermuda with a course of 190 degrees. Once we left the bay the winds picked back up to 35 to 40 knots.

6:00pm – Position N40.55.334 W71.11.654 Boat speed 5.2 to 7 knots. The crew is OK with the rough ride; all except one who is seasick. Captain Childress will take their watch. Even though I was not on watch I stayed up top to take in the scenery. As the sun went down I came in for some rest before my first watch at 9pm.

7:30pm Position N40.42.979 W71.08.184 Boat speed 7-10 knots. Still on a course of 190 degrees. One crew member is still very ill; violently throwing up. Captain Childress is cooking supper; certainly not done the way we do it at home. The stove is gimbaled, which means it pivots on a pole to keep the cooking pots level as the boat swings back and worth. Patrick wedges himself against the counter top and the wall then attends to the meal with one hand while holding on with the other. I am surprised that I am not sick too but I have never been seasick; considering all of the times I have been salt water fishing might have something to do with that. 

October 31, Tuesday

Temp unknown, Sunny to partly cloudy, Wind easing- to 24 knots

Position N40.01.185 W70.59.078 Course 190 degrees 6:30am – Wind light and variable. Wind indicator shows 21 knots but it does not feel like it. Probably because we have been battered with much higher winds the last 3 days. We have changed our course a little to 180-185 degrees.

Position N39.31.808 W70.31.383

  I was at the wheel when the sun came up; beautiful is all I can say. Words just can not do justice to it. Our sick crew member is feeling better this morning and they will take their watch as scheduled. Captain Childress has revised the watch schedule so there will only be one person instead of two on duty at a time to give  of us more rest.

9:30am – Position N39.13. 014 W70.46.717 Wind Speed 27 knots, Boat Speed 7-9 knots.

Bright sunshine.

    I just awakened from a three hour nap. Slept like a baby, refreshed.

11:30am – Position N38.58.407 W70.41.308 Boat Speed 7 knots, Wind Speed 27 knots increasing with 30 knot gusts.

  We spotted a freighter/tanker off our port side and it passed directly in front of us but since it was several miles away; posed no problems. We alerted the captain just the same. My GPS indicates we have traveled approximately 150 miles so far.

4:00 pm- It is a remarkably beautiful evening, waves almost calm at about 1-2 feet. We were able to eat a pork chop dinner while the water was still calm before we hit the gulf stream. I need to get some rest. My watch starts at midnight

Position N38.33.157 W70.27.310 Wind Speed 20 knots, Boat Speed 5.5 knots.

8:30pm – APPROACHING OR VERY NEAR THE GULF STREAM

Every day we have two radio check-ins with the other NARC boats. We learned from an early radio check-in that most of the boats in the NARC rally are East of us, either on the rhumb line of 165 degrees or between us and the rhumb line. If they are on the rhumb line it means they are going to get caught fighting the wind on their nose all the way to Bermuda. It is surprising how conditions can change so rapidly. The waves are very turbulent. We are now being battered by the waves but our speed is fantastic. The wind and current are perfect for the crossing.

Position N38.04.131 W70.05.120 Boat Speed 9.3 knots, Wind Speed 30 knots

11:30pm- Captain Childress made a decision to raise the staysail. Then we double reefed the main.

 November 1, Wednesday

Midnight to 3:30am – Conditions as I take my watch are very rough. The seas are now estimated to be between 15-20 feet. Wind speed is topping out at 52 knots. Boat Speed is about 7-9 knots and occasionally hitting 10 knots. We are in the middle of the gulf stream and for me, a baptism by fire. Patrick needed sleep, so did the rest of the crew. He sat with me a moment before going below and looked me straight in the eye and said, “can you handle it by yourself ?”, I swallowed hard and said, “yes”. I got behind the wheel and used two tethers to secure myself in the boat. It was a wild ride; like having a tiger by the tail; the only thing to do was to hold on and try to maintain a steady course.

Position N37.25.642 W69.10.339 Wind constant at 45 knots, gusting higher

8:00am – The outside air is much warmer. Position N37.00.840 W68.46.663

Boat Speed 6.5-8 knots, Wind Speed about 31 knots.

  We are about 40 nautical miles West of the original rhumb line of 165 degrees. Captain Childress chose this course in anticipation of the wind shifting before we get to Bermuda. If it shifts and you are one of the boats on or to the northeast of the rhumb line you will find yourself tacking into Bermuda. I peeled off my long underwear; getting hot!! And getting warmer since we crossed the gulf stream. There is an old saying I recently heard, the old sailors said the way to Bermuda from the East coast was, “Sail due West until the butter melts, then turn south”. I understand the “butter melts” part now.

9:00am to Noon – Wind Speed 25-30 knots, Boat Speed 7-8.5 knots. Current position at the time of this writing, N36’32’664 W68.18.921

3:00 pm – Position N36.16.756 W68.03.800 Boat Speed 7.2 knots, Wind Speed 24 knots.

  Very warm and pleasant, must be at least 70F. I took a shower and put on shorts and a tee shirt then went to sit up in the cockpit to take some pictures.

6:00pm – Position N35.15 W67.46 Course is 158-162. Boat speed is 6-7.1 knots.

Wind Speed 21 knots.

  We had steak to eat tonight. I used the free time to plot our course on the nautical chart I brought along with me.

November 2, Thursday

Midnight 

  The wind is changing direction; coming now in a more south easterly direction. We were hit by a small rainstorm and things started to go downhill fast.

Position N35.34.835 W67.03.663 Course 150 degrees. Wind Speed 25 knots, Boat Speed 6 knots. Wind building to 40 knots.

  The wind and waves are becoming very violent. We broke an adjustable side stay. It helps support the mast in heavy weather. Not to worry though, we have two of them. The line went overboard and we were able to get it on board before it fouled any thing. We had to furl the headsail then connected the staysail halyard and raised it. We also double reefed the main again.

  It was a magical night. Thunder heads were every where and the moon was out. At one point the moon was directly over a huge thunder cloud shinning majestically down upon it and it looked like you could see directly into heaven; how beautiful. Waves are continuing to build; some of the biggest I have seen so far on the trip. During the night we have seen several funnel clouds almost touch the water and had to change course at least once to avoid a large squall in front of us.

Worst of the storm at Position N35.27 W67.06

7:30am- Position N35.7 W66.45. Course 150 degrees

Boat Speed 7 knots, Wind Speed 19 knots

After crashing on the leeward couch I awake to clear skies but much cooler this morning. It is obvious now that a low pressure system past through during the night. We are not able to sail a straight course to Bermuda so will we shoot a course just north of Bermuda and tack in. Keeping our fingers crossed that at the last minute we will have a wind shift from the north that will push us into Bermuda without the need to tack.

12Noon- Conditions are getting bad again. Wind increased to 42 knots.

We have a full main and the staysail up. Waves are very large. I estimate 10-15 feet. One good thing is the wind is blowing us on a parallel course to the 165 degree rhumb line course to Bermuda. With the autopilot on we are making 6 knots sailing as close to the wind as possible. After plotting our current position on my chart I calculated that we would be on the same N-latitude as Bermuda in 36 hours. Coming in north of Bermuda will cause us to tack at some point but the recent increase in wind suggests that the front is moving; hopefully to our advantage. 

2:00pm- I risked my life and took a shower; did not need one but took one anyway. That opinion is not shared by several of the crew. Taking a shower on a sailboat in heavy weather is very nearly risking your life or at least risking some broken extremity; possible several broken extremities. You need to be part acrobat and monkey to balance on one foot, wash with one hand, and be prepared to catch yourself before being plastered to the wall from a lurch of the boat.

Position N34.35.427 W66.06.324 Boat Speed 6 knots Estimated distance to Bermuda is 151 nautical miles.

4:00pm-Position N34.26.017 W65.54.382, Boat Speed 6 knots, Wind Speed 37 knots.

Distance to Bermuda est. 138 nm. The skies have turned cloudy and air nippy. Waves estimated to be between 7-15 feet.

7:00pm- Position N34.15.664 W65.40.261, Boat Speed 6 knots, Wind Speed 35 knots, Estimated distance to Bermuda is 123 nm. Estimated wave height is 20 feet.

9:00pm-3:00am Waves and wind up considerably.

Wind gusts are increasing and starting to roar like a lion; a little disconcerting when that happens. One crew member is sea sick again; very sick. I assume I will need to take their watch. Captain Childress and I double reefed the main and attempted to raise the staysail. As Patrick ventured out towards the bow the waves were sweeping over the boat. At times the bow would hit a wave head on and temporarily blind us; everything would white out for a while. I was tethered and holding on to the winch but Patrick was extended on the forward bow with heavy water washing over. Rebecca was in the cockpit observing us when one huge wave hit and caused us both to “disappear” from her sight for a moment. She frantically yelled up to me, “is Patrick still on the boat ?”, and for a moment I could not see him either but the water dissipated to the point where he was visible again so we attended to our business and raised the staysail.

Position when we reefed the main N34.07.444 W65.29.539

Midnight position N33.53 W65.09

Just before Rebecca’s shift ended at midnight it allowed me to go below to the head. As I went down the ladder and turned around our sick crew member stuck their head up, looking like a pitiful dying sole with one last gasp to utter the words, “is this boat going to sink ?” , “can this boat take this kind of pounding”. I looked in their eyes (and they were hard to get focused) and said, “Na, this boat can take this and a lot more”. I was almost as concerned as they were but I was not going to let it be known.

Later:  I have been in the cockpit for 3 hours. Waves continue to be very rough and high. The cockpit is being flooded about every 5-10 minutes; from a little water to a total drench. I used my GPS to determine we have 21 foot waves but they are wide apart; thank God. Boat Speed is 6 to 6.5 knots. I thought I was hallucinating when I saw the wind gage hit 58 knots but for a short time it did.

For some reason I have the uneasy feeling that we are going to hit another boat, fatigue is setting in and I do not want to fall asleep so I sit up and do a 360 look-see every 10 minutes or so. Jerry comes on watch at 4:30am; I am exhausted.

5:30am- Position –N33.26.386 W64.44.221, Boat Speed 7.3 knots, Course 180 degrees, estimated distance to Bermuda is 63nm. I crashed on the leeward couch just under our sick crew member. I simply do not care they get sick on me, I do not have the strength to crawl up into my bunk

10:00am- Position N33.04.570 W64.25.627, Wind Speed 33 knots, Boat Speed 6 knots. As I get up this morning the skies are cloudy. Our last course change to 180 degrees did not give us enough of a straight shot to Bermuda without tacking. One last hope lies with a rain storm approaching us. It may have northerly winds. I am very tired from the previous night; think I slept 2 hours last night. Most of the crew is exhausted although I have faired pretty well, not getting sea sick and being that this is my first blue water trip. As the sunlight illuminates the cabin you can see the carnage the wind and winds have created  Captain Childress has endless energy; looks like he could run on nothing. I am writing this at the Navigation station where the concentration of electronic equipment resides. We have radar, wind speed, boat speed, PC chart plotter, VHF radio, and a single side band radio. I am watching the rain disturbance on radar and it appears to be heading directly for us; hope it brings north wind.

1:00pm- We were very fortunate, the wind shifted and we were able to make a course change; now heading straight south to Bermuda. Position N32.45.184 W064.26.995

Wind Speed 20 knots, Boat Speed 5.2 knots. We took out one reef and lowered the staysail and let out the main; wind now at our stern. Everyone is now anxious to see land.

Later- We spotted land. Actually Marion saw it first. “Land oh”, she yelled. I looked and yes she was right. Bermuda was a tiny speck on the horizon. We watched the speck grow bigger in the following hours. 

5:30pm-Arrived in Bermuda as the sun goes down. Several reefs surround Bermuda so we had to navigate a course that is clearly marked so we could enter the narrow passageway into the harbor. We had to be in contact with Bermuda Harbor radio the entire way so they could keep the channel open as we entered. Marion had the wheel as we made our way to land. When we arrived at the Customs office we were met by a surly customs agent whose day had not gone so well. Everyone scrambled for their passports and off we went to get clearance to enter the country.

 We stayed four days in Bermuda. 

November 7, Tuesday (Last day in Bermuda)

I was up early, 6am; made coffee and sat on the pier to drink my coffee and watch the sun come up. The feeling of loss has started to set in; the loss of some very good friends. I wondered when I arrived back home if it would ever be the same; especially my job. Some of the crew urged me to go on the second leg; crazier things have happened. Some people leave everything behind in pursuit of that blue water, but I could not wait to start planning the next trip.

  After the sun was up so was the rest of the crew and on deck. Patrick fired up the stove and soon eggs were frying and the aroma spread from boat to boat. As we ate our eggs a cruise ship squeezed through the harbor entrance and appeared off the starboard side of the boat. The upper decks were filled with the early risers; they were yelling “ahoy” “ahoy”,,,,.

  After breakfast Captain Childress was anxious to get underway to St. Martin; he had a narrow weather window to make. We motored over to the gas station and filled the tanks. It was not long after that the rest of the crew and I were exchanging hand shanks and hugs. I tried to soak the whole scene in; trying to remember it all; then Jerry untied the bow line and I untied the stern and off they went. I stood on the pier and watched and waved them off. I admit my eyes were a little damp and my heart was heavy to see them go. With a tug I lifted my backpack, turned around, and walked away.